Be it ever so humble....

We have been home 10 days and today I removed the last of my belongings from the RV. I was surprised how much it hurt to do so. I looked around at the space that had been our home for 5 weeks and was so sad that it was over. All along I knew that although this was a trip of a lifetime, I was not hooked on RV'ing and would encourage Emily to sell it when we returned home. In so many ways it was the perfect way to see the country. Taking our "home" comforts with us had advantages. Queen sized bed with thermafoam topper, AC/ heat (used both), real refrigerator and freezer, stove, microwave, oven (though I never used it) along with my coffee pot and veggie steamer made it perfect.

We also had the best of camping with campfires, s'mores, grilled food, animals and sunsets and stars.

We saw tree farms with rows and rows of tall trees and wind farms with windmills so tall that one blade needed a super sized trailer to deliver it. (yes we saw that, too) From the highway I saw corn growing in every state, but had a hard time finding some fit to eat. Found out potatoes only grow in the narrow west strip of Idaho. Some of Idaho looks like the moon. Two crops never seen before were sugar beets and hops.

We touched the Mississippi at flood stage in St. Louis and walked in the headwaters in Minnesota where it was little more than a stream. Saw all the Great Lakes except Ontario and touched them.

There were places that were so dry nothing but creosote and mesquite would grow there and areas so wet there was moss growing on the trunks of trees all the way around! Saw tall snow capped mountains, painted canyons of the Badlands deserts and prairies and every terrain in between.

Everywhere we went we searched for a ripe tomato, found none until we got home. Finally got some sugar corn in Minnesota. Ate bison and elk, river trout and walleye and a lot of peanut butter.

Tried local beer and wine every chance we got. Amused to find Rolling Rock listed as an import at one restaurant. When buying beer in Wisconsin a clerk asked about Yuengling when he heard I was from PA. I laughed and said it was my "hometown favorite"

We did a lot, missed a lot, could probably find a month of things to do in each place we went. It was hard to leave each of them.

Some days, especially on the way home, I couldn't remember which state I slept in the night before. I know I touched the Pacific Ocean in Oregon and made it home. I know we laughed and had a blast. We survived, no, thrived, for 24/7 in 32 feet for over 5 weeks, 21 states, 8474 miles in the RV and 1800 in rental cars.... Trip of a lifetime... priceless.

"On the cover of Rolling Stone..."

Our last planned destination was Cleveland to see the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. This was Skip's request, I wasn't sure I would enjoy it. I was wrong.

We stayed near Cedar Point in Ohio. No clue that Cedar Point is an amusement park. It had a Jersey Shore feel to it without the salt in the air. We were on Lake Erie now and once again got there pretty late, too late to explore the area. We half thought about staying an extra night to catch our breath, but we wanted to be home in time to go to the Annual Polish Cousins Picnic on Saturday so we decided to push on. We made sure we went to a beach to dunk our feet in another Great Lake, this time Lake Erie.

The drive to Cleveland was scenic, again not taking an interstate made the ride more interesting. We passed through small towns many with huge mansions. I guess the rich folks build houses along the lake to keep cool in the summer. Parking was a challenge with the RV, but doing some Internet homework helped. We knew the municipal and the Port Authority lots would accept RVs. Had some trouble locating them, but we managed and didn't have too far a walk. It was pleasant enough. Parked by the Cleveland Browns Stadium. They had a windmill to power the stadium.

The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum is a multi-sensory experience. There is music in the background and I found myself singing or dancing to the music. Great photographs of the early influences of R & R. Some great artifacts from some of the greats: Elvis, the Beatles, Michael Jackson. There was a whole special exhibit about Bruce Springstein. I found it cool that I had seen some of the legends in concert. Skip had even seen Elvis a few times! What I enjoyed most were the movies about Rock and Roll and Motown. We spend most of the afternoon there, and could have spent more time.

We did not have reservations anywhere and didn't know where we would spend the night. Leaving the museum close to 5 p.m. and dealing with Cleveland rush hour traffic trying to get out of town didn't help us get a lot of miles done this day.

We stopped at the rest area of the Ohio Turnpike thinking we were parking in the RV lot. Found out that for $15 one could plug into electric and spend the night. They had pump out and fresh water if you needed it. The rest area had some food places as well as trucker's shower and laundry. So we paid the $15 and spent the night with several other RV's. Not KOA, but better than WalMart parking lot. And a bit closer to home than Cleveland....our last night on the road.

Not the North Pole or Mall of America

Sometime in the past year or so we saw a show about the largest Christmas store in the world, probably on the Travel Channel. I remember saying to Skip, "If we ever go to Michigan, we have to go there." That was forgotten until I saw a billboard for Bronners, CHRISTmas Wonderland. We checked the website and found it was not out of the way, so we HAD to go.

Frankenmuth, Michigan is a vacation destination. There is a German feel to the touristy place. We went to the Frankenmuth Bavarian Inn for bratwurst and German style beer brewed just for the Inn. They had a glockenspiel that you could see from outside in the beer garten.

The main attraction for me was the Christmas store. It was overwhelming. It was like a Christmas Village, North Pole, Santa's Workshop, for acres and acres...well, I don't know really how big it is, but the parking lot reminded me of a mall lot only it was one store. I kept looking up at all the decorations and scenes. On the sales floor was every ornament you could want, personalized, themed, color co-ordinated....animal, vegetable, occupation or hobby. Every once and a while I had to stop and ground myself. I thought of my brother, Bill, who loves to decorate for Christmas. I sent him a photo from my cell phone and asked him to guess where I was. He first guessed the North Pole, then Mall of America. I sent it to Emily who guessed Santa's Workshop. Nope, Bronners... Google it.

For several years I have been collecting Christmas ornaments when I travel. On this trip I had already gotten a few from Kansas (ruby slippers), South Dakota, Yellowstone, Glacier, Lake Itasca, but to buy one here at the store of stores...how to choose....it was not as hard as I thought. A shopping bag with ornaments inside and the name of the store on the front of the bag...sold...and I bought an eagle from the animal section. I love eagles and we saw a few on our trip.

So if you are ever in Michigan, and can get to Frankemuth, stop for a beer and a bratwurst at the Bavarian Inn, and go to Bronners. It's an amazing place, Christmas 361 days of the year- closed only 4 days. Check out their web page...truly amazing. http://www.bronners.com/

Yoopie Soul Food

Driving across northern Michigan, this time admiring Lake Michigan, we saw signs for "Pasties." No, get your mind out of the gutter, this is food, not adult entertainment. We stopped for lunch at a place that had on it's sign: "Yoopie Soul Food" My curiosity is really piqued...I was about to discover what is a "pasty" but had a new question: what is a "yoopie"?

We ordered three, the original-a beef pasty, a veggie one and a pizza pasty. A root beer and a cream soda completed our lunch order. Back in the RV we set about tasting Yoopie soul food.

The beef pasty had lean ground beef, potato and rutabaga encrusted in a pastry crust. They were shaped like a half moon, smaller than a calzone, but bigger than a pirogi. It was baked, not fried and was more flaky than a calzone, it was not a yeast dough, more like a pot pie crust. A little dry, but tasty. The veggie one was similar but had carrots and celery. I didn't taste the pizza one. It just seemed wrong. If it wasn't yeasty dough, I wouldn't like it.

I took a flyer from the store that answered some of my questions. Pasties have a Cornish heritage, the Cornish immigrants worked the mines and often took pasties for lunch into the mines. The real mystery was solved, a "Yoopie" is a person from Upper Peninsula Michigan.

We stopped again to put our feet into Lake Michigan then drove around the upper peninsula and across the Mackinac Bridge. Lake Huron to one side and Lake Michigan on the other. I'm not into bridges, but this one WAS beautiful. As promised, I thought of our waiter in Oregon who haled from this part of the world. We stayed at yet another lake, Higgins Lake, but arrived too late to explore the area.

Land of Lakes

Northern Wisconsin is also full of lakes, passed Land of Lakes and stayed at Chain of Lakes. Most impressive was my first view of Lake Superior. It looked like an ocean with waves and you could see no shore on the other side. A young man said to Skip, "this is our ocean" and was so happy that it was clean and clear. He was from twin cities and hadn't seen either the Atlantic or Pacific Ocean. The Jersey shore certainly isn't as clean as Lake Superior...

Wisconsin was another drive through state and we wished we could have stayed longer. Traveling east I keep calling it, but it is really going home. I want to be home, but I want to see more of these states...

The Mighty Mississippi?

Our trip started with seeing what the mighty Mississippi could do to St. Louis in flood stage. We also planned to see the headwaters of the Mississippi in Minnesota, a state with more coastline than any other due to its lakes and rivers. As we drove to Lake Itasca we couldn't help noticing how many lakes there are! There are also beautiful forests with a huge variety of deciduous and coniferous trees in so many shades of green! We did not take the interstate, but traveled a state road that went through national forests.

Itasca is a state park in which you could spend weeks. There were lakes for kayaks and canoes, cabins and campgrounds (we stayed at a KOA nearby). We met people from the state who go there every year and stay for a week at a time and others who come several times a summer.

We walked a short distance from the visitor center to a marker of the headwaters to get a tourist shot. Skip offered to take a family photo of a group and they reciprocated. I posted the tourist shot. We dipped our feet into the water and found out from a local that you can wade downstream for a bit and the water only gets thigh deep (unless you are short...) then there are steps so you can climb out and get back on the path. It was a very hot day, the water refreshingly cool...who could resist? There were squeals of delight as children got in the water in their clothes. I think part of the appeal was getting your clothes wet, but there were many kids with bathing suits, locals I guess, who knew the drill. Another local told Skip that it takes 90 days for the water do go from where we stood to the mouth of the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico.

Foolishly I did not listen to Skip's suggestion to put on my Tevas and water shorts like he did....so I slogged through the water with my Island Pro Slippers (Hawaiian Flip Flops) gripping tightly with my toes to avoid losing them. Flashbacks of having one stuck in the muck of a stream in Reno last year were haunting me. It took great effort to locate and free it and I wasn't leaving it in Reno and the Mississippi wasn't claiming it either.

We walked the distance with some other people. At one point I almost lost my step and would have landed in the water, purse and all, but I managed to regain my footing. I felt a bit naughty getting my white shorts wet, and being short, I was wet beyond my thighs... The good thing about being in an RV was that there were clean dry clothes and a place to change waiting for me.

Another wonderful place that we left thinking we would like to come back some day....

Long Drive East

Shortly after entering North Dakota we saw signs for Theodore Roosevelt National Park. A woman at a visitor's center in Montana said it is one of the least known National Parks, but was beautiful. Needing a reminder why we took this trip, we stopped at the park for a while even though we had many miles to our campground and the sunlight was fading.

This was called the Badlands of North Dakota, not to be confused with those in South Dakota. Looking down into the Painted Canyon we noted it was different than South Dakota because there was a lot of vegetation, green grasses and low lying bushes. In South Dakota, there wasn't much growing. We enjoyed the view and remembered to stop to smell the flowers, figuratively. Or watch the play of light on the canyons...

I would have liked to spend more time in North Dakota, but there were only two KOA campgrounds in the state, the one near Bismark and one further north and way out of our way. A drive through state this time, but one worth a return trip.

Wheat Montana

One of the great joys in traveling is trying local food, wine and beer. I purchased one of the best whole wheat breads at a grocery store. Wheat Montana Healthy Loaf, Montana Multigrain was not too sweet, just right. What I didn't know until we ventured into Three Forks, Montana was that the farm and bakery was open to the public. SO we had to stop (it's all about the bread) and got lunch as well as some of the best sticky buns I have EVER eaten. Not whole wheat, not healthy, but totally worth the calories and cholesterol! It's a good thing it's in Montana and not in Quakertown, because it could easily be addictive....

I was also fond of Montana beer, Moose Drool was one of my favorites!

"Know the Power that is Peace"

While visiting our friends in Spokane, Doug and Gail talked about their trip cross country. (They recently moved there from West Chester, PA) One of the highlights was a stop at Little Big Horn National Park in Montana and a tour narrated by a student from Little Big Horn Community College. She was so passionate explaining the Native American fight for their way of life and the land they were promised that it opened their eyes to a part of history not often taught.

Since this was something that we were also interested in, we made plans to stay at a campground in southeast Montana when we left Glacier. At Glacier we met folks from Colorado who had just come from Little Big Horn. The father was a history buff and they spent several days there. We only had half a day to take in whatever we could.

The land looked much as it did when Custer was there. Few trees, prairie grasses, gentle hills and coulees. ( Our guide explained that a coulee was like a ravine with a U shape; a ravine has a V shaped bottom. Both carry water runoff during a rainy season.) Up on the hill it was eerie to see the white headstones that marked where men fell and died. The hasty shallow graves were dug up shortly after the battle and the remains were moved. Headstones were placed where they died. Among unknown Cavalry soldiers was the stone marking George Custer. His remains were moved to West Point.

The park was formerly known as "Custer's Last Stand National Park" In an age of political correctness it was changed to reflect a more "balanced" fight between the Native Americans and the white man. We displaced them to land we didn't want, not suited for their lifestyle. Forced them on reservations and tried to push our culture on them, stripping them of their own. Then gold was discovered in this area so treaties were broken pushing them again. Sitting Bull and some others had enough and pushed back. They won the battle, none of Custer's men survived, but they lost the war. Outrage over the "massacre" made people want revenge. It was the end of the culture for the people. Put on reservations, made dependant on the U.S. Government. The damage has not been undone by renaming this site.

Among the prairie grass are a few newer red granite stones. They mark the place that Native Americans lost lives. There are far fewer of those. They were recently placed there to show that it was not only the whites who suffered loss. Most of the white stones were on Last Stand Hill. Across from there was a modern kiva-like structure, a memorial to the Native Americans of all tribes who lost their lives at the Battle of Little Big Horn.

The National Park is actually on Crow Reservation. Students from Little Big Horn Community College give a fairly unbiased view of the war on their bus tour. Back then the Crow were scouts for the U.S. Cavalry. They were not traders to their people, the U.S. were fighting with Sioux and Cheyenne, enemies of the Crow.

Our guide was informative, but not as passionate as the woman Doug and Gail had. It was still a moving experience as I realized that it marked the beginning of the end of the Native American way of life. The culture of "the People" has always been of interest to me. I want to know more and would like to visit more native cultural sites. Crow Fair would be a fabulous place to continue this journey, but we were there a few weeks too soon.

More than a Big Sky!

Montana is not to be taken lightly. It is a HUGE state, particularly when you are travelling from the northwest corner (Glacier) to the southeast (Little Big Horn) corner in one day. There was a lot of driving (and riding) involved. Fortunately we were forewarned by a family who had done the opposite route and said it was 10-12 hours. No kidding.

I had a lot of time to read signs and boy did I see some interesting ones. The first caught my attention as we left Glacier National Park to return the rental car. There on the highway was a billboard for "Cannabis Pharmacy" Wait, pot leaves on a full sized billboard? Is that legal in Montana? I almost drove off the road! Had I a camera I would have taken a photo to prove its existence! I wouldn't post it as it might be misconstrued... When Skip and I reunited at the airport I asked, but he hadn't noticed it. Figures...my doubting friends will have no proof.

Further along we passed through a town (Polson, Montana) in which every street sign or destination signs were in two languages. Not Spanish and English, but English and a Native American tongue, Salish, I believe. It was wonderful that they were able to infuse the culture back into the town. I'm sure it was the influence of a Salish Community College. We had lunch in a local restaurant and one of the locals was there having a cell phone conversation in which he switched from a language I did not understand to English and back again. So cool! Our treatment of Native Americans as well as the slaves, and African Americans embarrasses me. This town in Montana might have been surrounded by a reservation, I wanted to spend more time there and be immersed in their culture.

The other signs were quirky ones that made me laugh. A sign for a store named "Nomad" written beneath was "moved 5 miles north." I don't know what they sold, but it was so funny! A sign on another business said: "Open by chance or by appointment."

If you have seen the commercials where they combine unlikely businesses and say that doesn't make sense, you will love the next two: a Sporting Goods/Jewelry Store. Toys for him, pretties for her. I wonder if the more he spends the bigger the diamond...

Then there were casinos combined with everything. The best was a combination was "Suds and Fun" a casino/laundromat. I'd rather drop my quarters in the dryer and watch the clothes spin dry than put a quarter in a slot machine, but here you could choose!

We were headed for a campground near Little Big Horn so we could see the place of Custer's Last Stand.

To the Sun

You would think that after a month and visits to various mountain ranges, we would become blase regarding scenery by now. Not so, each has its own distinct look and beauty. We were not disappointed by Glacier National Park. The park is joined with a Canadian managed park and is called the International Peace Park. This year they are celebrating 100 years of parkdom! I had no idea that it had been a destination for white man since then. The native people call it a sacred place, the backbone of the world. It felt sacred to us as well.

Again we were amazed at the lakes, creeks and waterfalls that interspersed the Going to the Sun Road. We stopped and walked to a few to get closer to the running water. So peaceful...even among the crowd.

Not long after entering the park we saw a bear cub run across the road. So cute! Not graceful, but cute. It then stopped on the other side and had a snack! We had to stop as it ran across, then proceed slowly stopping again just long enough to snap a photo. That's closer than I would choose to be to a cub not knowing where mama bear was...but I stayed in the car this time and got a decent shot.

The mountains suddenly became snow capped with streams and waterfalls bringing the melt water downstream. Many were very strong! Along the road were numerous waterfalls from the rocks. Couldn't photograph those, but whenever we stopped I snapped a bunch of pictures.

The road climbed higher and higher as it went around the mountains. Some falls we viewed from the valley we were now able to see at our level. So beautiful. The Going to the Sun road is restricted from vehicles over 22' so it was a good thing we rented a Subaru. I didn't drive long on the park road, turning it over to Skip. I would have been too stressed to drive around some of the bends. I know it was safe, but my blood pressure reacts to fear...

At some point, just like every other National Park, we had to stop for construction. They said 20 minutes. So you turn off the car, get out, have a snack and take photos. I took one to remember next time I am stuck in some city or on the Schuylkill Expressway.

We drove to the Logan Pass Visitor Center where Skip had to wait and jockey for a parking spot. Not enough spots for all the visitors! Once parked we took a walk around the back of the center and saw a deer and bighorn sheep. It was SO beautiful there with the snow, mountains and wildflowers...and guest appearances of a buck and a bighorn sheep. They were so nonplussed by the people, the buck was within touching reach of the footpath. Though people had their children pose with the animal, I didn't see anyone trying to feed or pet him.

There is only one way through the park and you can either turn around and drive the road in the other direction or skirt the southeast side of the park through Blackfeet Indian Reservation. That's what we decided to do not realizing the distance...but the view was worth it! We were still able to see the mountains and streams of Glacier.

A road sign warned of cattle on the road, and sure enough around a bend and I was startled by a half dozen on the road and along side of it. I slowed real quick and drove more carefully. We stopped a time or two along that road, once for another Continental Divide sign and another for a Goat Lick. I finally understand the Continental Divide with the aide of a map. The Missouri River goes into the Gulf of Mexico, and the Atlantic. The Columbia River goes to the Pacific. Both have headwaters in these parts. So depending on which body of water the creek, stream or river empties is determined by the Continental Divide. Still amazing this far west that water goes downstream to the Atlantic. We heard a Blackfeet Elder say that this is the backbone of the world and everything is downstream of here...

Goat lick was a rock outcropping which has some salt mineral that attracts goats. Skip saw several there.

We are not finished exploring Glacier. Tomorrow we leave for south eastern Montana, Big Sky Country and hopefully a visit to Little Big Horn to honor the native people. I hate Custer, I do not go to honor him and am glad they changed the name of the National Monument. It is on a reservation and should not honor a man who killed the people.

Nine Mile Falls

Yesterday we joined our friends Doug and Gail in the home into which they just moved permanently, north of Spokane. They have a lovely home on a lake where we were able to see an eagle among other wildlife as we drank our morning coffee on the Lanai. It is so nice to catch up with boating friends and relax in this beautiful place.

This afternoon was warm so Doug got out his jet ski and for the first time in my life I rode on the back of one. What fun! Skip knew better than to go too fast with me on the back. It was very cooling on a hot day.

They have been wonderful hosts opening their home to road weary us. It was nice to shower without flip flops and shave my legs without being afraid of touching the sides of the shower and catching something. Gail has been making wonderful meals for us and even washed my sheets and towels in her new washer! I feel like I am at a spa or bed and breakfast.

After pie we went out on a sunset cruise on the lake to look for eagles. We saw a golden eagle, a bald eagle, an osprey, and a heron. Never before did we get so close to an eagle. Although we took many photos, none were as good as what we saw. What a perfect ending to a wonderful weekend.

We miss them at the marina, it was Doug who first took us on his boat on the Chesapeake and helped us find our first boat when I fell in love with the bay. I hope we are able to visit them again here in Nine Mile Falls. This is a wonderful place to call home. I wish them much happiness and am grateful for their hospitality.

Voodoo Donuts or Bust!

Sometime over the winter we saw a show on the Travel Channel about Voodoo Donuts, an unusual trendy place in Portland, Oregon. Their specialty, beside a human shaped donut filled with raspberry jam, impaled with a pretzel stick; is a variety of weird donuts including a maple bacon donut. When we planned the trip Voodoo was put on the list of must sees.

After dropping off the car armed with Google directions we headed for downtown Portland to find it. We decided not to go to the original that had unknown parking, but to a second store that boasted on the website of a decent parking lot. We found the pink painted building with the ample parking lot. Once inside I was overwhelmed by the choices. A multi layered revolving display case had too many choices to allow me to think straight. We conversed with a Portland native who explained that the appeal of the maple bacon is greater after 2 a.m. when the bars close...

We bought a maple bacon donut to split, several Voodoo donuts, one with vanilla icing and crushed Oreos, and a few glazed. Surprisingly the maple bacon was good. the sweet maple icing is countered with the salty bacon.

The donuts themselves were REAL donuts, not the chain variety you find now. If you are old enough to remember bakery donuts or lucky enough to eat an old school fashnacht, you will like the donuts from the pink place. Not real sweet, very breadlike (homemade or artisan bread) The icing is thick and very sweet on the ones I tried.

The whole experience was totally worth the trip! I know it's a cult, but I don't regret it a bit. As for the cholesterol and sugar rush, well, it was a once in a lifetime experience. Next time I go to Portland I hope to see more than the donut shop, but be sure I would go there again. YUM!

Newport; Last Year Rhode Island, This Year Oregon

Thursday we decided to explore the scenic byway north of the campground. Originally we planned to go only as far as Newport...

The beaches north were more sand and less rocks. Some of the towns resembled shore towns of the east coast. Still no one swimming and few people sitting on the beaches. We saw several people flying kites...so THAT is what the beach is for, too cold and windy to swim.

Newport was a weird combination of working town/tourist trap. Only problem was the main drag for tourists is the same one the fish processing plant trucks need to use. Bad combination. Tourists are usually in a hurry and don't want to wait for a semi to try to turn or back up on a narrow street while they are fighting for free parking. As we were waiting for exactly that, some yahoo passed us on the wrong side of the road weaving between us and the truck backing up. We just drove to the far end of town and found parking along the marina. Working boats tied up had fresh tuna and halibut for sale right off their boat! It was very tempting to buy some, but though we had a cooler with ice, we couldn't fill the freezer. We did buy some crabs to have for dinner.

Newport has the usual tourist shops with t shirts, nautical, made in Oregon, and every other place has food! The town smelled of fish, fresh fish, and I am not complaining about it. It was a fresh fish of an active fishing town... There were some sea lions lying around the dock. They had been injured by man, one had raw skin that almost looked like it was branded. I guess they felt safe there because they slept, lifted a tail or a head here and there and roared. They posed for photos in their inactivity.

There were two different lighthouses close by. They were very picturesque. One was maintained by volunteers and donations, the other was a National Historical Monument. We were able to go into the one maintained by volunteers which was lovingly restored. It was furnished with antiques and there were several volunteers in the building who loved to talk about how the folks would have lived while the lighthouse was active.

We decided to go further north than Newport to Depoe Bay because there were supposed to be a pod of whales living close to a whale watching center. When we got there the folks said they hadn't seen whales that day. We were disappointed, but the ride was worth it. Depoe Bay says they are the smallest bay in the world...The town reminded me of a Jersey shore town.

We stopped at a small winery on the way home, but didn't buy anything there. No problem, a stop at a grocery store was all we needed to have the proper beverages for our crab dinner.