More than a Big Sky!

Montana is not to be taken lightly. It is a HUGE state, particularly when you are travelling from the northwest corner (Glacier) to the southeast (Little Big Horn) corner in one day. There was a lot of driving (and riding) involved. Fortunately we were forewarned by a family who had done the opposite route and said it was 10-12 hours. No kidding.

I had a lot of time to read signs and boy did I see some interesting ones. The first caught my attention as we left Glacier National Park to return the rental car. There on the highway was a billboard for "Cannabis Pharmacy" Wait, pot leaves on a full sized billboard? Is that legal in Montana? I almost drove off the road! Had I a camera I would have taken a photo to prove its existence! I wouldn't post it as it might be misconstrued... When Skip and I reunited at the airport I asked, but he hadn't noticed it. Figures...my doubting friends will have no proof.

Further along we passed through a town (Polson, Montana) in which every street sign or destination signs were in two languages. Not Spanish and English, but English and a Native American tongue, Salish, I believe. It was wonderful that they were able to infuse the culture back into the town. I'm sure it was the influence of a Salish Community College. We had lunch in a local restaurant and one of the locals was there having a cell phone conversation in which he switched from a language I did not understand to English and back again. So cool! Our treatment of Native Americans as well as the slaves, and African Americans embarrasses me. This town in Montana might have been surrounded by a reservation, I wanted to spend more time there and be immersed in their culture.

The other signs were quirky ones that made me laugh. A sign for a store named "Nomad" written beneath was "moved 5 miles north." I don't know what they sold, but it was so funny! A sign on another business said: "Open by chance or by appointment."

If you have seen the commercials where they combine unlikely businesses and say that doesn't make sense, you will love the next two: a Sporting Goods/Jewelry Store. Toys for him, pretties for her. I wonder if the more he spends the bigger the diamond...

Then there were casinos combined with everything. The best was a combination was "Suds and Fun" a casino/laundromat. I'd rather drop my quarters in the dryer and watch the clothes spin dry than put a quarter in a slot machine, but here you could choose!

We were headed for a campground near Little Big Horn so we could see the place of Custer's Last Stand.

To the Sun

You would think that after a month and visits to various mountain ranges, we would become blase regarding scenery by now. Not so, each has its own distinct look and beauty. We were not disappointed by Glacier National Park. The park is joined with a Canadian managed park and is called the International Peace Park. This year they are celebrating 100 years of parkdom! I had no idea that it had been a destination for white man since then. The native people call it a sacred place, the backbone of the world. It felt sacred to us as well.

Again we were amazed at the lakes, creeks and waterfalls that interspersed the Going to the Sun Road. We stopped and walked to a few to get closer to the running water. So peaceful...even among the crowd.

Not long after entering the park we saw a bear cub run across the road. So cute! Not graceful, but cute. It then stopped on the other side and had a snack! We had to stop as it ran across, then proceed slowly stopping again just long enough to snap a photo. That's closer than I would choose to be to a cub not knowing where mama bear was...but I stayed in the car this time and got a decent shot.

The mountains suddenly became snow capped with streams and waterfalls bringing the melt water downstream. Many were very strong! Along the road were numerous waterfalls from the rocks. Couldn't photograph those, but whenever we stopped I snapped a bunch of pictures.

The road climbed higher and higher as it went around the mountains. Some falls we viewed from the valley we were now able to see at our level. So beautiful. The Going to the Sun road is restricted from vehicles over 22' so it was a good thing we rented a Subaru. I didn't drive long on the park road, turning it over to Skip. I would have been too stressed to drive around some of the bends. I know it was safe, but my blood pressure reacts to fear...

At some point, just like every other National Park, we had to stop for construction. They said 20 minutes. So you turn off the car, get out, have a snack and take photos. I took one to remember next time I am stuck in some city or on the Schuylkill Expressway.

We drove to the Logan Pass Visitor Center where Skip had to wait and jockey for a parking spot. Not enough spots for all the visitors! Once parked we took a walk around the back of the center and saw a deer and bighorn sheep. It was SO beautiful there with the snow, mountains and wildflowers...and guest appearances of a buck and a bighorn sheep. They were so nonplussed by the people, the buck was within touching reach of the footpath. Though people had their children pose with the animal, I didn't see anyone trying to feed or pet him.

There is only one way through the park and you can either turn around and drive the road in the other direction or skirt the southeast side of the park through Blackfeet Indian Reservation. That's what we decided to do not realizing the distance...but the view was worth it! We were still able to see the mountains and streams of Glacier.

A road sign warned of cattle on the road, and sure enough around a bend and I was startled by a half dozen on the road and along side of it. I slowed real quick and drove more carefully. We stopped a time or two along that road, once for another Continental Divide sign and another for a Goat Lick. I finally understand the Continental Divide with the aide of a map. The Missouri River goes into the Gulf of Mexico, and the Atlantic. The Columbia River goes to the Pacific. Both have headwaters in these parts. So depending on which body of water the creek, stream or river empties is determined by the Continental Divide. Still amazing this far west that water goes downstream to the Atlantic. We heard a Blackfeet Elder say that this is the backbone of the world and everything is downstream of here...

Goat lick was a rock outcropping which has some salt mineral that attracts goats. Skip saw several there.

We are not finished exploring Glacier. Tomorrow we leave for south eastern Montana, Big Sky Country and hopefully a visit to Little Big Horn to honor the native people. I hate Custer, I do not go to honor him and am glad they changed the name of the National Monument. It is on a reservation and should not honor a man who killed the people.

Nine Mile Falls

Yesterday we joined our friends Doug and Gail in the home into which they just moved permanently, north of Spokane. They have a lovely home on a lake where we were able to see an eagle among other wildlife as we drank our morning coffee on the Lanai. It is so nice to catch up with boating friends and relax in this beautiful place.

This afternoon was warm so Doug got out his jet ski and for the first time in my life I rode on the back of one. What fun! Skip knew better than to go too fast with me on the back. It was very cooling on a hot day.

They have been wonderful hosts opening their home to road weary us. It was nice to shower without flip flops and shave my legs without being afraid of touching the sides of the shower and catching something. Gail has been making wonderful meals for us and even washed my sheets and towels in her new washer! I feel like I am at a spa or bed and breakfast.

After pie we went out on a sunset cruise on the lake to look for eagles. We saw a golden eagle, a bald eagle, an osprey, and a heron. Never before did we get so close to an eagle. Although we took many photos, none were as good as what we saw. What a perfect ending to a wonderful weekend.

We miss them at the marina, it was Doug who first took us on his boat on the Chesapeake and helped us find our first boat when I fell in love with the bay. I hope we are able to visit them again here in Nine Mile Falls. This is a wonderful place to call home. I wish them much happiness and am grateful for their hospitality.

Voodoo Donuts or Bust!

Sometime over the winter we saw a show on the Travel Channel about Voodoo Donuts, an unusual trendy place in Portland, Oregon. Their specialty, beside a human shaped donut filled with raspberry jam, impaled with a pretzel stick; is a variety of weird donuts including a maple bacon donut. When we planned the trip Voodoo was put on the list of must sees.

After dropping off the car armed with Google directions we headed for downtown Portland to find it. We decided not to go to the original that had unknown parking, but to a second store that boasted on the website of a decent parking lot. We found the pink painted building with the ample parking lot. Once inside I was overwhelmed by the choices. A multi layered revolving display case had too many choices to allow me to think straight. We conversed with a Portland native who explained that the appeal of the maple bacon is greater after 2 a.m. when the bars close...

We bought a maple bacon donut to split, several Voodoo donuts, one with vanilla icing and crushed Oreos, and a few glazed. Surprisingly the maple bacon was good. the sweet maple icing is countered with the salty bacon.

The donuts themselves were REAL donuts, not the chain variety you find now. If you are old enough to remember bakery donuts or lucky enough to eat an old school fashnacht, you will like the donuts from the pink place. Not real sweet, very breadlike (homemade or artisan bread) The icing is thick and very sweet on the ones I tried.

The whole experience was totally worth the trip! I know it's a cult, but I don't regret it a bit. As for the cholesterol and sugar rush, well, it was a once in a lifetime experience. Next time I go to Portland I hope to see more than the donut shop, but be sure I would go there again. YUM!

Newport; Last Year Rhode Island, This Year Oregon

Thursday we decided to explore the scenic byway north of the campground. Originally we planned to go only as far as Newport...

The beaches north were more sand and less rocks. Some of the towns resembled shore towns of the east coast. Still no one swimming and few people sitting on the beaches. We saw several people flying kites...so THAT is what the beach is for, too cold and windy to swim.

Newport was a weird combination of working town/tourist trap. Only problem was the main drag for tourists is the same one the fish processing plant trucks need to use. Bad combination. Tourists are usually in a hurry and don't want to wait for a semi to try to turn or back up on a narrow street while they are fighting for free parking. As we were waiting for exactly that, some yahoo passed us on the wrong side of the road weaving between us and the truck backing up. We just drove to the far end of town and found parking along the marina. Working boats tied up had fresh tuna and halibut for sale right off their boat! It was very tempting to buy some, but though we had a cooler with ice, we couldn't fill the freezer. We did buy some crabs to have for dinner.

Newport has the usual tourist shops with t shirts, nautical, made in Oregon, and every other place has food! The town smelled of fish, fresh fish, and I am not complaining about it. It was a fresh fish of an active fishing town... There were some sea lions lying around the dock. They had been injured by man, one had raw skin that almost looked like it was branded. I guess they felt safe there because they slept, lifted a tail or a head here and there and roared. They posed for photos in their inactivity.

There were two different lighthouses close by. They were very picturesque. One was maintained by volunteers and donations, the other was a National Historical Monument. We were able to go into the one maintained by volunteers which was lovingly restored. It was furnished with antiques and there were several volunteers in the building who loved to talk about how the folks would have lived while the lighthouse was active.

We decided to go further north than Newport to Depoe Bay because there were supposed to be a pod of whales living close to a whale watching center. When we got there the folks said they hadn't seen whales that day. We were disappointed, but the ride was worth it. Depoe Bay says they are the smallest bay in the world...The town reminded me of a Jersey shore town.

We stopped at a small winery on the way home, but didn't buy anything there. No problem, a stop at a grocery store was all we needed to have the proper beverages for our crab dinner.

Oregon or Bust

We found a farmer's market in the very town we were near open Wednesday mornings! Finally farm fresh produce. Loading up on veggies and berries (Marion berries and blueberries are in season here.) we were disappointed, still no corn! A short growing season in this part of the world, they were closer to our late May early June in vegetables ready to harvest...

We traveled south on 101, Oregon Coast Scenic Highway, and it lived up to its name. The cool thing about Oregon is besides the pull offs along the way, there are many state parks with parking, picnicking, restrooms along the way. Frequent campgrounds dotted the road, too. Naturally we stopped at most of the pull offs and some of the state parks.

Each area was different. Some beaches were sandy, others rocky with no sand. There were sandy beaches that had huge rocks sticking out of the water. These were the ones the seals and sea birds of all sorts liked. You could see the seals lying on the rocks almost rock like themselves. Waves crashed over rocks making waterfalls in the ocean. Some beaches required a climb up huge sand dunes, others you climbed down rocks to gain access to the water. In some areas mountain streams and the forest came right up to the ocean. The forests were never far away along the highway.

The predominant tree is red cedar towering above other coniferous trees. There were enough deciduous trees to make the forest interesting. Red cedars are tall and graceful; the huge trunks indicate their old age. The branches are delicate, they hang veil like. Often the trunks are padded with moss. There was a Spanish moss-like growth on many of the trees. It was a brighter green than what you would see in South Carolina or Georgia.

The main difference between this coast and the Jersey shore is that they were not crowded. That's because no one swims in the ocean here. Dangerous waves combined with highs of 65 degrees doesn't make you want to jump in. Skip dangled his hands in, but was careful to keep the feet dry. No need for sunscreen because we were usually wearing long sleeves and jackets!

We drove south as far as Coos Bay, then went across the bridge to a working town, Charleston, where we found a nice restaurant for some fresh fish. You could watch the fishing boats in the marina.

Potatoes!

We covered the rest of Idaho and finally saw some potato fields. I can't believe that most of the Idaho potatoes grow in the western part of Idaho. I know it's long, but it doesn't seem long enough to produce all of the potatoes labeled Idaho potatoes...

When we crossed into Oregon we were jubilant! We made it! Route 84 travels along the Columbia River, the border between Washington and Oregon on the Oregon side. What a beautiful ride. Out in the distance I could see a snow covered mountain and figured it must be Mt. Hood. By the time we found a place to pull over, it didn't look as impressive, but the picture in my mind was incredible. I don't know if Mt. Hood is like its sister mountains: Mt. St. Helens, Mt.Rainer, Mt. Baker and still farther north Denali, which are often occluded by clouds. I got to see Denali from the air, but never from the land. People talk about the mountain being out like we do the sun up in Alaska. It's a big deal to see Mt. Rainier in Seattle, too. She wasn't out when we were there a few years ago.

Route 84 goes into the Columbia River Gorge, a Scenic Route. The views were beautiful with coniferous forest and hills on one side, the river on the other. Wild sweetpeas grew on the roadside. We saw kestrel, osprey, eagles and pelicans along the river.

We were able to stop at Multnomah Falls, a waterfall so high that I couldn't get it into my photo in one shot. Perhaps if I were standing on Route 84 I could have captured it all before I got smushed by a semi. We took time to hike midway up the falls trail. Took some photos and finally asked someone to take one of us! The whole trip and no photos of the two of us together! How silly.

I was practically giddy driving across Oregon,we made it! We were headed for the Pacific Coast, PACIFIC COAST!!!

We drove to Salem to pick up a car at the airport there was some difficulty. The airport was very small even though it is the capital of Oregon. There was one gate and two car rental places, neither of them was Avis, where ours was reserved. We drove around and around and finally returned to the municipal airport to the two rental counters and noticed the lady at the Budget counter was wearing an AVIS Shirt...Trying to trick me, I said. No, the sign hadn't come in yet, but they rented for both Budget and Avis.

The drive to Waldport to our next KOA reservation was beautiful. Across a mountain on a road that followed the Alsea River. I enjoyed driving, but it was hard on Skip in the RV, very winding and a lot of ups and downs. The river emptied into a bay which empties into the Pacific. After finding our campsite we took a walk across the bridge from the campground to the town. We saw seals swimming in the water and some diving loon-like bird. No white necklace so I didn't know if it was indeed a loon or not. A long drive that ended with a nice site and sight.